The aim of this blog is to connect fly-tyers all over the world, to share, techniques, patterns, information and knowledge.

Archive for July 24, 2012

Streaking Caddis:

The adult caddis fly

I belive that many great trout patterns have several things in common: they are quick and easy  to tie, no special tecniques or tools required.  The materials are easy to obtain, that would say available from most fly tying stores. They cast without problems and last but not least they catch fish.  This legendary pattern comes from the vice of the Swedish fly tying Guru, Lennart Bergquist.

The shear “fishability” of this pattern just has to be tried to be belived.

The bullet shaped aero and aqua dynimic form of this pattern makes casting a dream and presentation precise, for me there is somthing magical from the moment my SC lands on the water with a its distinctive “plop” that attracts attention, even from resting or lethargic fish. The body semi submerged and the wing and head floating high. This I always follow with a pause, let the fly rest on the surface for 5-10 seconds, allowing the leader time to sink and the fly to settel and hang. Then comes the retrieve. With your rod tip down, close to the water, and your line taut, start with short jerky retreives streaking the fly 10-15cm at a time, creating a small wake behind the fly as you pull. After you have covered a meter or so of water, take another short pause. Follow this procedure until the cast is fished out. When fished as an attractor pattern,  you increase the speed and length of your retreive plouging the streaking caddis just under the surface causing it to pop and gurggle as it goes. This can induce fast and aggresive takes, even when there is little fish activity to be seen.

The shear “fishability” of this pattern just has to be tried to be belived. Firstly, as it was ment to be fished, under a caddis fly hatch. Where adult caddis are streaking across the waters surface.But in recent years the streaking caddis has also found its way into the fly boxes of sea trout and salmon fishermen. Fished in the same way, as a wake fly, it has teased up fish from the bottom of otherwise dead pools of many a salmon and sea trout river.

Streaking Caddis

Hook: Mustad 94840 # 8

Thread: Dyneema

Body: Poly dubbing

Wing: Deer hair

Head: Spun and clipped deer hair

Secure your hook in the vise as shown and make a foundation of tying thread.

Dubb the body of the fly.

Sellect your deer hair. The best deer hair to use for this particular pattern is taken from a deer that is killed during the coldest part of the year, the hair I use is from the European Roe deer that I have shot myself on the last day of hunting (23rd December) here in Norway. The colder the climate the thicker and more bouyant the deer hair.

Cut a large bunch of deer hair. The most common mistake in tying this popular pattern is to use too little deer hair. Remove all the under wool and short hairs with a dubbing comb.

Stack your deer hair in a hair stacker. Before you remove the hair completly from the stacker measure the correct wing length.

Holding the wing in place with your left hand, make, not one, but two loose turns of tying thread around the deer hair as shown. This should be made at the point where the clipped head goes over to the wing.

Now tighten the turns by pulling the tying thread ”upwards” this is important, if you tighten the thread by pulling downwards the wing will slip around the hook shank, and you need all this hair on-top of the body.

Now you can continue over the head of the fly as for a regular spun deer hair pattern.

Whip finish your Streaking caddis and remove the tying thread.

You can now begin the clipping process. Long serrated scissors are best for this as these grip the deer hair and give a better cut. It also helps to clip from the back of the fly as shown. The head should be cone shaped.

Clip all around the overside of the head.

Now finish the rough clip on the underside.

The next step is a good trick for all spun and clipped deer hair patterns. Take a lighter, with the gas set on the lowest position and carefully ”singe” the clipped head. This will seal the ends of the deer hair and give a very even surface and form to the finished head. It will also tighten the hair and make the wing lie flat in the correct position. But take care not to burn the hair and tying thread.

With an old toothbrush, remove all the soot from the head.

The finished Streaking caddis.

A sure winner when caddis are skating the surface

















Tying Mutantz:

The tell tale sign of flying ants, seagulls feeding.


Hook: Mustad R 30 94833 # 12-14

Tying Thread: Dyneema

Body: Black & red melt glue

Wing : CdC

Hackle: Black cock

On the warmest summer days the tempreture rises in the south facing ant hills and triggers the annual swarming.  Ants are not good flyers, so they leave the nest in large numbers to increase the chances of establishing a new colony. When they take to the wing they are at the mercy of the wind and end up where it takes them.

If they are unlucky and land on water, the fish go into a feeding frenzy. In extreme situations I have experienced that the trout will take just about any fly that is presented for them. But other times they can be so selective that they will only take the perfect pattern with the right silhouette, colour and behavior. Therefor its important to to have a good imitation too hand, and a more realistic ant imitation than this is difficult to find. Without of course going way over the realistic boundaries and tying a ultra realistic pattern.  This is after all a fishing fly! Here I have made the two most characteristic body parts with melt glue, that shine just like the natural in the summer sun. I have also coloured one half black and the other red, I have found that this works under both colours of ant swarming.

This pattern has i in built drowning affect.  Right after a ant has crash landed on the water, the rear body part begins to sink, while it’s legs and wings hold it afloat a short while.  If you are going to fish this pattern ‘dry’ I recommend that you that you impregnate it well with floatant.

For those of you that are not familiar with melt glue and Dyneema tying thread here´s a little technical information that should help you get started.

 Melt glue:

Tying with melt glue does require a little more practice and patience than most regular materials. Melt glue is a material that one has to get used to using. Once its mastered, it can be put to use not only in developing new patterns but also as a substitute in existing ones. Melt glue guns come in various sizes from hobby to industrial, I find the hobby size not only the cheapest but also the easiest to employ. Another advantage with the hobby gun is the amount of different glue that is available. Although for this pattern I use a coloured glue, in most patterns I use the transparent or “regular” glue that can also be coloured with waterproof felt markers. The regular glue is also much easier to handle and shape than the coloured. In most cases, It has a lower melting temperature and a shorter drying time than the glues with added colour and glitter.

After tying with melt glue for over a decade and a half, nowadays I seldom use my gun to apply the glue, only for patterns where a large amount of glue is required. Otherwise I melt the glue direct from the “glue stick” with a lighter, or I first cut the required amount of glue from the stick with scissors, hold one end of the glue fragment with needle nose tweezers and warm the other end with the lighter and apply it to the hook. I then continue to melt and form the glue with the lighter on the hook. The clear glue can also be coloured by applying a foundation of coloured tying thread over the hook shank before you apply the glue.


For the past five years I have used only one tying thread for all my fly tying, for everything from the smallest size 28 dry´s to the largest salt water patterns. There are so many advantages with tying with Dyneema it would require an article all on it´s own. Maybe I will publish that later?

Secure you dry fly hook in the vice. Make sure that the hook shaft is horizontal.
Attach your tying thread and run it from just behind the eye of the hook all the way along the hook shank and a little down the bend. Make a couple of whip finishes and remove your tying thread.

You will now need a stick of black and red melt glue.

Cut a small piece of black melt glue and hold at one end of the glue in a pair of needle nose tweezers. With a lighter carefully melt one side of the glue. While the glue is hot, stick it to the hook in the correct position for the rear of the ant body.

When the bit of back glue is stuck to the hook you can proceed to melt it with the lighter. Was the glue is warm it will naturally flow around the hook shaft. You may have to rotate the hook to get the body the perfect shape.


Now attach your tying thread again in front of the red glue.

Take a small bunch of CdC and tie this in up on top of the hook shank tight into the red body segment. The wing should be the same length as the whole body.

Select a top quality black cock hackle and tie this in at the base of the wing.

Apply a little black Antron dubbing to your tying thread and dubb the rest of the hook shank forward to the eye of the hook.

You can now wind on your hackle in traditional dry fly style. Trim off the access hackle and tie off.

Make a couple of whip finishes and remove your tying thread. Varnish. Your Mutant is now ready to swarm!