The aim of this blog is to connect fly-tyers all over the world, to share, techniques, patterns, information and knowledge.

Tying Mutantz:

The tell tale sign of flying ants, seagulls feeding.

 

Hook: Mustad R 30 94833 # 12-14

Tying Thread: Dyneema

Body: Black & red melt glue

Wing : CdC

Hackle: Black cock

On the warmest summer days the tempreture rises in the south facing ant hills and triggers the annual swarming.  Ants are not good flyers, so they leave the nest in large numbers to increase the chances of establishing a new colony. When they take to the wing they are at the mercy of the wind and end up where it takes them.

If they are unlucky and land on water, the fish go into a feeding frenzy. In extreme situations I have experienced that the trout will take just about any fly that is presented for them. But other times they can be so selective that they will only take the perfect pattern with the right silhouette, colour and behavior. Therefor its important to to have a good imitation too hand, and a more realistic ant imitation than this is difficult to find. Without of course going way over the realistic boundaries and tying a ultra realistic pattern.  This is after all a fishing fly! Here I have made the two most characteristic body parts with melt glue, that shine just like the natural in the summer sun. I have also coloured one half black and the other red, I have found that this works under both colours of ant swarming.

This pattern has i in built drowning affect.  Right after a ant has crash landed on the water, the rear body part begins to sink, while it’s legs and wings hold it afloat a short while.  If you are going to fish this pattern ‘dry’ I recommend that you that you impregnate it well with floatant.

For those of you that are not familiar with melt glue and Dyneema tying thread here´s a little technical information that should help you get started.

 Melt glue:

Tying with melt glue does require a little more practice and patience than most regular materials. Melt glue is a material that one has to get used to using. Once its mastered, it can be put to use not only in developing new patterns but also as a substitute in existing ones. Melt glue guns come in various sizes from hobby to industrial, I find the hobby size not only the cheapest but also the easiest to employ. Another advantage with the hobby gun is the amount of different glue that is available. Although for this pattern I use a coloured glue, in most patterns I use the transparent or “regular” glue that can also be coloured with waterproof felt markers. The regular glue is also much easier to handle and shape than the coloured. In most cases, It has a lower melting temperature and a shorter drying time than the glues with added colour and glitter.

After tying with melt glue for over a decade and a half, nowadays I seldom use my gun to apply the glue, only for patterns where a large amount of glue is required. Otherwise I melt the glue direct from the “glue stick” with a lighter, or I first cut the required amount of glue from the stick with scissors, hold one end of the glue fragment with needle nose tweezers and warm the other end with the lighter and apply it to the hook. I then continue to melt and form the glue with the lighter on the hook. The clear glue can also be coloured by applying a foundation of coloured tying thread over the hook shank before you apply the glue.

Dyneema:

For the past five years I have used only one tying thread for all my fly tying, for everything from the smallest size 28 dry´s to the largest salt water patterns. There are so many advantages with tying with Dyneema it would require an article all on it´s own. Maybe I will publish that later?

1.
Secure you dry fly hook in the vice. Make sure that the hook shaft is horizontal.
Attach your tying thread and run it from just behind the eye of the hook all the way along the hook shank and a little down the bend. Make a couple of whip finishes and remove your tying thread.

2.
You will now need a stick of black and red melt glue.

3.
Cut a small piece of black melt glue and hold at one end of the glue in a pair of needle nose tweezers. With a lighter carefully melt one side of the glue. While the glue is hot, stick it to the hook in the correct position for the rear of the ant body.

4.
When the bit of back glue is stuck to the hook you can proceed to melt it with the lighter. Was the glue is warm it will naturally flow around the hook shaft. You may have to rotate the hook to get the body the perfect shape.

 

6.
Now attach your tying thread again in front of the red glue.

7.
Take a small bunch of CdC and tie this in up on top of the hook shank tight into the red body segment. The wing should be the same length as the whole body.

8.
Select a top quality black cock hackle and tie this in at the base of the wing.

9.
Apply a little black Antron dubbing to your tying thread and dubb the rest of the hook shank forward to the eye of the hook.

10.
You can now wind on your hackle in traditional dry fly style. Trim off the access hackle and tie off.

11.
Make a couple of whip finishes and remove your tying thread. Varnish. Your Mutant is now ready to swarm!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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