The aim of this blog is to connect fly-tyers all over the world, to share, techniques, patterns, information and knowledge.

Archive for March, 2014

The Bulldozer: A monster popper for spring pike



Hook: Ad Sweir Pike # 8/0

Tying thread: Dyneema

Tail: Marabou and crystal hair

Skirt: Four large Whiting American hackles

Topping: Peacock herl

Legs: Barred rubber legs

Collar: Lite Brite and Marabou

Head: Three foam pencil poppers welded together

Eyes: Mobile dolls eyes


For a long time after I began fishing with poppers, I was constantly disappointed with how little water the pre-made cork and foam heads actually moved – when yanked, after all, optimal  popping, gurgling and splashing is what we are trying to achieve!

I then experimented with cutting my own popper heads from foam blocks, but found it difficult to sculpt the heads symmetrical enough to get a balanced presentation so the popper fished on an even keel. But that wasn’t the only problem – they were ugly – they looked like they had been carved by Freddy Kruger!

After much trial and error, I started gluing three pre-made popper heads together to attain the desired volume. Through this I achieved what I was looking for. By increasing the overall bulk of the head, I increased the buoyancy – and by tripling the surface area of the nose (or the bulldozer end of the popper), my popper now pushed three times as much water when retrieved. Hence the name Bulldozer.

Gluing pre-made popper heads together also considerably increases the overall dimensions of the finished fly, if required.


1. Select three foam pencil popper heads. Before gluing them together arrange them (dry) so all the ‘face angles’ of the heads are aligned. Use a good waterproof cement or superglue, if using superglue it only takes a few seconds for the glue to dry so you have to work quick! Firstly glue the two base popper heads together as shown.


Glue the last popper head mounted central to the two base poppers. Again! make sure the faces are matched and aligned.



Place the 8/0 pike hook in the vice and cover the hook shank with tying thread.

IMG_9671 4

Make a dubbing loop at the rear of the hook. Select a good long and fine tapered marabou hackle and spin into the dubbing loop.



Wind on the dubbing loop to form the tail. Make sure that you brush the fibers back after each turn to achieve optimal movement in the marabou. Tie off the dubbing loop.



Tie-in a bunch of Crystal hair or some other flash of your choice.



Now, tie another small dubbing brush of marabou over the crystal hair. You can tie in plumes of marabou as a quicker alternative if wished.



Tie-in two Whiting American hackles, one each side over the marabou tail.



Now, another slightly larger dubbing loop with marabou over the hackles.



Over the marabou, a fine veil of Lite Brite or Angel hair.



For the topping, tie-in five or six strands of long peacock herl. These should be distributed between the two hackles on top of the tail.



Tie-in two more slightly longer hackles, one each side of the tail.



Another dubbing loop with white marabou around and over the whole tail. This is all about creating the illusion of volume without the weight.



Tie-in two long rubber legs each side of the hook shank.



Now the last bunch of marabou. Run the tying thread forward along the hook shank making a good foundation for gluing the popper head. Whip finish and remove the tying thread.



Before you cover the hook shank with a good amount of epoxy or super glue, Do a dry run mounting the popper head. Make sure the hole in your popper head is open, use a dubbing needle.



Push on the bulldozer popper head onto the hook shank. Make sure the head is aligned with the hook point!



Glue on your mobile eyes. Again make sure that the eyes are balanced – otherwise the popper head will not float on an even keel and thus not splash and pop to its full ability. This rule for poppers does not apply to streamers/bait fish imitations, it’s quite the opposite! An off-balanced streamer will swim and behave much more like an injured fish.

On a safety note: Hard hat and other safety equipment should be worn when casting the bulldozer…



You can find more patterns for toothy fish in: Flies for pike:
Flyfishing for pike has never been more popular. Barry Ord Clarke presents us with a new generation of successful flies for pike developed by expert pike flyfishermen and fly-tyers. Herman Broers, Dougie Loughridge, Simon Graham, Ulf Hagstrom, Ad Swier and Steve Silverio have all contributed their well-proven patterns. Ten proven patterns – flies that have proved their worth – catching many big pike in British, European and North American waters. With step-by-step fly-tying instructions, and many tips from the experts on luring this exciting quarry. This is the first in the new Proven Patterns series of step-by-step guides to flies that catch fish.
Flies for Sea trout rivers:
The elusive and challenging sea-trout, lithe and strong from feeding in the sea, inhabits the wildest places in Britain and Europe. Like the salmon it ceases feeding once in the river and its capture calls for the highest skills of the angler and fly-tyer. On the darkest nights it abandons its customary caution and may fiercely attack the flyfisher’s lure, and even under low-water conditions it may be tempted by a skillfully presented nymph. Barry Ord Clarke and sea-trout experts Illtyd Griffiths, Steffan Jones, Gerhard Schive and Bjarne N Thomsen present us with 15 proven patterns for sea-trout, step-by-step tying instructions, and tips on how to fish them. This is the third in the new Proven Patterns series of step-by-step guides to flies that catch fish.
Flies for Sea trout Salt water:
Flyfishing for sea-trout in the sea is one of the most exciting recent developments in angling. It had long been practised on our northern and western shores, largely using traditional wet-fly tactics, but the massive growth of the sea-trout fishery in Scandinavia has led to the development of innovative and highly successful fly patterns, many of them imitating the natural prey of the sea-trout in the sea. Barry Ord Clarke and sea-trout experts Claus Eriksen and Bjarne N Thomsen present us with ten proven patterns for saltwater sea-trout, with step-by- step tying instructions, and tips on how to fish them. This is the second in the new Proven Patterns series of step-by-step guides to flies that catch fish.
Forthcoming titles include: Proven Patterns: Flies that catch Salmon. Proven Patterns: Flies for Carp and Coarse Fish. Proven Patterns: Flies for Bass, Mullet & other Sea Fish. Proven Patterns: Dry Flies for Grayling. Proven Patterns: Flies for Rainbow Trout.
Link to Cochy-Bonddu Books:


New Date for Fly Tying demo

There is a new date added to the show season for my Norwegian friends! IMG_6487

I will be tying Friday 25.04 and Saturday 26.04 at Skitt fiske in Sandefjord.

Demonstrating patterns with the latest UV materials and techniques from my new book Modern patterns for salt water sea trout.

Messa vår starter torsdag 24.04.14 og vi slutter lørdag 26.04.14.

Åpningstidene er torsdag og fredag fra kl. 09.00 til kl. 20.00.

Lørdag starter vi kl. 10.00 og holder på til kl.18.00.

Skitt fiske. telefon: +47 33 46 07 57

Nygårdsveien 78

3221 Sandefjord

Helter Skelter Pike Fly jig.

My Helter Skelter pike jig works on all the pikes attractor senses!

Hook Mustad S74SZ # 2/0-4/0

Thread Dyneema

Body E-Z Body XL filled with 3-5 beads

Under wing White buck tail

Wing Chartreuse and white Icelandic sheep

Over wing Lime green Big fish fiber

Sides Grizzle cock hackles coloured yellow

Eyes Large mobile eyes and bug bond or epoxy

I developed the Heltor skeltor to maximize all the attractor elements possible in one fly.

The Icelandic sheep and big fly fiber are extremely mobile in water, but their effect is enhanced by the weight of the brass beads that roll back and forth in the body tube giving not only a sporadic jerky swimming action but also rattle against each other sending out an audial signal to predators. Not forgetting the eyes which are an attack point, are oversized for additional predator impact. If you keep all these factors in mind when designing predatory patterns you wont go wrong.

Secure your hook in the vice. Attach your tying thread at the bend of the hook as shown.

Cut a length of E-Z body XL and singe the fibers at one end with a lighter. This is important as it will give purchase for the tying thread and stop it slipping off the tube.

Thread the E-Z body over the hook shank until you come to the tying thread.

Tie the end of the E-Z body down. Make sure this is secure.

Whip finish and remove your tying thread. You must now apply varnish or bug bond to the tying whippings. Trim the E-Z body down to about 4 mm longer than the hook eye and seal the fibers again.

Draw back the E-Z body tube and attach your tying thread 4-5 mm behind the hook eye.
Now insert 3-5 large beads inside the E-Z body cavity. These have several purposes. They not only give weight and sound by rattling against each other while fishing, but they also influence the swimming action of the fly. As you retrieve, the beads roll back and forth in the belly of the streamer making it tip up and down and extremely attractive.

Tie down the E-Z body tube to seal the the body.

Tie inn a under wing of white buck tail, this will support the finer more mobile over wing material.

Now tie in a length of white Icelandic sheep, the wrong way as shown. This will give a little volume to the head section. This should be a little longer than the buck tail under wing.

Now fold over the white Icelandic sheep. You will see that the head of the fly will be lifted, like a pompadour.

Cut a length of chartreuse or yellow Icelandic sheep and tie this in the correct way over the white wing.

Cut a smaller bunch of lime green big fish fiber keeping the crimped ends, these again will give volume just above the head of the streamer.

Colour two large grizzle hackles yellow with a waterproof felt pen.

Tie these in as the sides.

Using a drop of super glue attach two large mobile or dolls eyes, one each side and central to the hook eye. Once the eyes are attached you can then fill the opening between both eyes over and under the hook eye with Bug Bond or Epoxy.

The finished Helter skelter pike streamer.

Making a fur hackle and dubbing tutorial

Once again this is a request I have had from several fellow bloggers for the fur hackle spinning technique. Although similar too the spinning deer hair article, there are a few pointers you should be aware of when mastering this technique.


Just about all natural and synthetic furs, feathers and hairs can be used as one form of dubbing or another. Before you start its worth considering what type of hair or material is suitable for the type of fly you are tying. There are several factors regarding the choice of natural materials.

1. Dry fly, nymph, wet.

2. Sinking, floating.

3. Ridged or pulsating.

4. Neat or scruffy.

When you are using natural materials you should consider what kind of animal, lifestyle, and climate it derives from. If choosing a dubbing for a small dry fly the  under fur from otter, beaver and coypu have, because of their aquatic lifestyle a super fine under fur which is impregnated with natural water repellant oils, rather like the fur equivalent of CdC. On the other hand if you would like a long pulsating, sinking hackle choose a soft finer hair from an opossum or a rabbit that will absorb water but remain mobile and lively when fished. For nymphs there is of course the classic spiky hares ear dubbing. So to achieve optimal function and design of the the pattern you intend to tie, consider the above before starting.


1. Here I am using an old fashioned bull dog paper clip to hold the fur but for perfect dubbing spinning I can recommend the Marc Petitjean Magic tool. Marc’s magic tool is made from transparent plastic, the advantage with this is that you have much more visual control over the length and lie of the material being used. The above material is a regular hare zonker strip. Place this in the clip so the fibers are 90 degrees to the clip and at this stage you also determine the length of the hackle required.


2. Now with long straight scissors cut off the base and hide from the strip leaving only 2 or 3 mm of fur out from the clips jaws.


3. The finished loaded clip. You should now take care not to apply pressure to the clip and open it before needed. Otherwise all the material will shift or fall out.


4. Make a dubbing loop. If the material you are using is dense ( thick guard hairs and under fur) you will need to make a loop of double tying thread as above. But if the material is fine, a finer loop of split tying thread is sufficient. Also its important that where the two sides of the loop meet the hook shaft that they are touching. If you have them open, one strand of thread on each side of the hook shank the loop will not close correctly, and the material spun will loosen and fall out.


5. Move your bobbin forward towards the hook eye and attach your dubbing spinner.


6. If you are using Dyneema or another thread that is un-waxed, you will need to apply a little dubbing wax to the thread to gain ultimate traction.


7. Once you have placed the material in the loop carefully remove the clip in one smooth movement while keeping tension on the spinner to hold the dubbing loop tight and closed.


8. While keeping tension, spin the dubbing loop clockwise until all the material is secured and flares like a regular hackle.


9. You can now wind on your fur dubbing loop in a traditional hackle style. Taking care to brush back the fibers of each turn before making the next.


10. With this technique you can make as many turns of fur hackle as required. If you make only two turns you have a perfect fur hackle collar or you can cover the whole of the hook shank. If you would like a very spiky dubbed body for a nymph you can cover the whole hook shank and then trim it all down to the body shape you would like.


11. For a buggy nymph dubbing you would need a material that will sink and command a little more volume that a fine dry fly body. This is hares ear. Pull some stiff short fibers from the ears of the hare and some softer more dense hair and fur from the mask.

If you would like to use a fine material make use of a dubbing rake.  When pulled through the fur on a skin, this will collect only the finer under fur.  If you don’t have a dubbing rake you can also just pluck out the fibers with your fingers.


12. Now place the under fur  in the palm of your hand and with the finger of your other hand rub the dubbing around in a clockwise motion.  This will blend the dubbing evenly, making it easier to work with.


13. Select a small amount of dubbing and place it between your index finger and the tying thread as shown.  When I am teaching people to tie flies one of the most frequently asked questions is – how much dubbing shall I use ?  Most fly tyers apply way too much dubbing to the tying thread at one go, so I say, take what you think you should use, half it, and then half it again, and normally you arrive at a usable amount.


14. Now its time to roll the dubbing material onto the tying thread.  With the tying thread and dubbing resting on your index finger place the tip of your thumb on top of this so as to trap the material and the thread between your finger and thumb.


Still trapping the thread and material between your finger and thumb push the tip of your thumb towards the tip of your finger, clockwise, thus rolling the material around the thread. You must do this several times up and down the thread to attach the material, forming a kind of dubbing rope.  You should also remember one of the most common mistakes with attaching dubbing is that the fly tyer will roll the dubbing firstly clockwise and then anti clockwise when replacing the thumb back into the beginning of the rolling stage, this unwinds the dubbing.  Also don’t try and make more than a few cms of dubbing rope at one time, this will also unwind as you wind it onto the hook shank.


15. Once your dubbing rope is ready you can now begin to wind it onto the hook shank to form the body.  When you have wound on the first length of dubbing, repeat the process until the desired size of body is achieved.  If you would like to taper the body, as in most nymphs begin with a thin dubbing rope, and the apply more dubbing each time making a thicker rope.


16. Once the nymph body is finished tie off behind the hook eye.


17. If you would like an even more buggy effect use a brush ( I use an old tooth brush ) to pull out the fibers to make a buggy body.


18. The brushing gives a soft and mobile, yet spiky nymph body.


19. But if you would like a fine slim body without too many fibers you can trim these off with a fine pair of scissors.


20. The finished trimmed cigar shaped body. Good luck! If you have any questions regarding dubbing dont be shy.

Edson Tiger

The modifide Edson Tiger with the Brass Eyes.

One of the great classic American streamers, developed by the well know fly tier  Bill Edson in 1929. The Edson Tiger dark & light where influenced by a streamer called “Dick´s Killer” that Edson received from fellow fly tier Dick Eastman of New Hampshire in 1928.  The original patterns tied and sold by Edson where with jungle cock cheeks, but later he replaced the jungle cock with small teardrop brass plates which was apparently done, not only because of the increasing price of the already expensive jungle cock but also difficulty in obtaining a regular supply of it. But soon after the introduction of the metal cheeks they became so popular with his customers that they replaced the jungle cock on all his streamer patterns. But truth be told,  the metal cheeks added a whole new dimension to how the patterns fished. With extra flash and weight in his streamers, there where few other patterns at this time that offered this. Although this pattern is almost a century old it still accounts for many a trout and has proven an excellent late season pattern for salt water sea trout fishing here in Scandinavia. A couple of years ago while tying at the Dutch fly fair, I was lucky enough to meet Chris Helm, who had for sale, the Edson Brass eyes.

Chris Helm doing his thing at the Dutch fly fair

If you contact Chris and purchase these eyes to add that extra dimension to you Tigers they do need a little work doing to them before they are ready to tie in. Using a pair of sharp wire cutters, these are not difficult to cut, they are made from brass after all, but sharp cutters make for a neater finish. You need to trim the side of the eye that is square into a point. Once this is done I use emery paper to sand the edges of the point to a fine taper, otherwise you will get a distinct mark under the tying thread where the the eye is secured.

Hook: Standard streamer # 6

Tag: Flat gold tinsel

Tail: Barred wood duck

Body: Peacock herl

Wing: Yellow buck tail

Topping: Red hackle fibers

Cheeks: Jungle cock or Edson Brass Eyes

Head:  Yellow varnish

Secure your streamer hook in the vice. Attach your tying thread and run this along the hook shank.  Tie in a length of flat gold tinsel for the tag, this should be just three or four turns.

Once you have tied off your tag and removed the surplus you can tie in three or four long strands of peacock herl at the base of the tag.

Select a wood duck flank feather with good barring and cut out a slip, line up all the bars if uneven and fold in half. This will give barring on each side of the tail. Tie off.

Run the tying thread back to the tail and twist together the peacock herl and tying thread to strengthen it and wind on to form the body. Tie off the peacock herl.

Select and clean a small bunch of yellow buck tailf or the wing. Stack the hair in a hair stacker. This should be no longer than the tail end.

The topping is a small bunch of red hackle fibers tied in on top of the wing as shown. It should be approximately one-third of the total wing length.

Now tie in the jungle cock cheeks, one each side. Make sure that both jungle cock eye´s are equal in size and well balanced. Whip finish.

All that is left to be done now to finish your EdsonnTiger is varnish the head yellow.

The Eyes are available along with a good

selection of Mustad streamer hooks from

Chris Helm at:

Crayfish Master class.

Although I don’t fish with super realistic patterns, I do enjoy tying them every now and then. If you are starting from scratch, as I did with this crayfish, it takes a little time to actually work out the fundamentals, scale, hook size, proportions, materials and techniques.

I always start with a morphology  image from the visual dictionary, this gives you the basic shape, scale, body segment and leg count. Once this is established I select the materials and then try and plan the correct order to put them together. This can be rather like building a piece of IKEA furniture without the instructions, you get half way and realize that you have left something out! and have to start again.


But for those of you that would like to have a go, I have photographed each step of this pattern, trying not to miss anything out and explaining each stage as I go. Although it looks complicated, its not difficult, but does take some time. You can tie it in stages tie up the legs one day, the claws another etc. So give it a go!

If you have any questions post them in the comments box at the foot of the article and i will try and answer them ASAP.

Good luck.

Hook: Mustad S74SNP # 1

Tying thread: Dyneema

Beard: Buck Tail

Legs & claws: E-Z Body coated  in Bug Bond

Underbody: Dubbing

Eyes: EP Crab eyes

Body shell: Closed cell foam coated in Bug Bond

Tail: Three Cock ring neck pheasant neck feathers

Feelers: Stripped cock hackle stems


Cover the hook shank with a foundation of tying thread

Tie in a bunch of buck tail for the beard. This should be a mixture of natural brown and white

Take some E-Z body small and medium tubing and cut to length for the legs and claws

Holding the medium tubing and tying thread end in your left hand, make the first joint. Once this is done finish with a half hitch and remove the thread for the next joint. You can coat each joint with Bug Bond or varnish as you go

Bug Bond is perfect for coating the whippings on each joint

Once you have coated the claw with Bug Bond you can cut it to shape

Now move onto the next joint

Once you have made all the joints for the left claw you can now move onto the right one

I have made one claw a little larger than the other just to give it a more realistic feel

Make sure that when you tie in the first claw that the positioning and scale are correct. once its tied in coat the whippings with varnish

When tying in the claws the ends of the E-Z body tubing can be flattened with flat nosed pliers first

Now you can tie up all the walking legs. Before you do this seal the ends by burning them with a lighter, taking care they dont catch fire

Tie in the joints of all eight walking legs

When you start tying in the legs make sure that you position them correctly as realistic as possible

All eight legs in place, remember that the two rear legs should be facing backwards

Select two large brown cock hackles and strip off the fibers to make the antennas

Tie these in as shown. If they are too long they can be trimmed down later

Spin some dubbing onto the tying thread and start at the front and dubb in between the legs, making sure you get the right thickness and taper

Cut a piece of foam sheet for the exoskeleton. This can be measured against the hook for the correct size

Place the foam in the correct position and tie in the first segment between the third and fourth pairs of legs

From the underside this first segment should now be dubbed and the tying thread moved behind the rear legs

Now make the next segment over the foam

Dubb the next underbody segment while lifting the foam

Continue dubbing and tying the segments as in stage 23 until you are finished

The underbody should now look like this

From the neck of a pheasant skin select three church window hackles for the tail

Strip of the fibers at the base of the hackles

Tie in the first tail plate as shown

The second tail plate

And the third central and on top of the first two

You can now colour the crayfish with a waterproof felt pen

Take two crab eyes and trim the ends to a point. This will help attach them to the foam

First make two small holes for the eyes with a dubbing needle in the foam. Then dip the ends of the eyes in super glue and attach

Your crayfish should now look like this

You can now coat the whole crayfish with Bug Bond

The finished beast

The word has it, that the worm is 14 days early this year!

The rag worm fly is without doubt one of the most difficult patterns to tie, but the rewards can be great!

The ragworms wedding as it is known, is called the springs most exciting adventure for the sea trout fisherman. And if you are lucky enough to be at the right place at the right time, there is no danger for you not connecting with fish. Although ragworms are on the sea trouts menu the whole year round, its in the spring under the annual swarming that the sea trout will go on a feeding frenzy and gorge themselves on the worms.

The real deal.

There are many patterns known to sea trout fishermen to imitate the worm, some better than others, some simple to tie and some, not so simple to tie. I believe the original pattern from the tying bench of innovative Swedish fly tyer Robert Lai is still for me, without a doubt the best. Robert´s pattern is probably one of the most challenging patterns, many fly tyers will ever learn to tie, but the rewards are great.  No other worm pattern swims and pulsates in the water like his, imitating the natural swimming worm as closely as humanly possible with feather and steel.

Although we are not 100% sure, and thats not for lack of theories! But the spring swarming is due to the worms spawning season and seems to be triggered by two main factors. A rise in water temperature 6-7 degrees, and the arrival of a new lunar phase, (full moon) from anywhere  around mid March and into April.  The female ragworm broods her eggs within her long flattened body and as the eggs develop her body becomes brittle and eventually splits, releasing the eggs. The male ragworms are attracted to the egg laying by following pheromones, that are also released by the females. After spawning, both male and female ragworms die.

Ragg worm swarming can be very local in most situations, and it’s not easy to know where. Then you should look to the sky, beacause the greedy and forever hungry sea gulls can show you the way.  If you can see that screaming sea gulls are flocking and circle around a area of coast, this shows you where to fish – just like the pelicans when tarpon fishing. Consider  also when the strong spring sun has been high in the sky all day and warming up the shallow’s, especially with dark muddy bottoms. Most sea trout fishermen, including myself, prefer sight fishing during the day looking for rises as you fish systematically, possible holding spots in small bays and inlets as the tide rises and falls. But if you are, as most sea trout fishermen, hoping to connect with  larger fish that are normally wiser and more sceptical about entering the shallower coastal waters during the hours of daylight. These shallow areas retain the days heat during the first couple of hours of darkness.  It’s during this period that larger sea trout dare to venture into the shallows to feed.  You should fish at least a couple of hours into the night.

The pattern I have tied here started off, 15 years ago, as a direct copy of Robert´s original pattern, but over the years it has changed a little, but this had more to do with receding memory on my part, than anything to do with developing the pattern. But the basic original principal is still there and the pattern still works. There are a few rules one must follow when tying this pattern. The tail hook should be small and light in weight. Because the worm has an extremely flexible body, a larger and heavier tail hook has a tendency to “Hang-up” on the body under casting, which results in you fishing a ball of marabou with the hook out of-line.  A heavier tail hook also reduces the  animation and swimming motion of the worm by restricting the tail from lifting when the bead head sinks.  Another point is the central core of the fly, not the loop that you spun the marabou onto but the Dyneema spine that holds the front hook to the tail hook.  This is Alfa and Omega regarding the success of tying this pattern. If the spine is not securely attached to the front hook, you can risk loosing, not only the business end of your worm but also fish. So make sure that you tie this in as well as you can and don´t be afraid to use super glue.  The Latin name for the common ragworm is Nereis diversicolor, meaning they are quite variable in colour, but typically reddish brown and turning more on the green side during the spawning season.  So the rule for colour is that there is no rule, you can tie the worm in any colour you like! Personally I have found the two most successful colours for me are the one shown here and bright orange. And don´t forget that ragworms are on the sea trout menu the whole year, so don´t restrict your fishing with it just to the spring, it´s also a deadly pattern for regular trout fishing.

Hook Tail: Mustad Shrimp C47SD # 8

Hook Head: Mustad Shrimp C47SD # 6

Tying Thread: Dyneema

Central Core: Dyneema

Tail: Black and Olive brown marabou

Body: Black and Olive brown marabou

Head: Brass or Tungsten bead

Secure your salt water # 8 tail hook in the vice.

Cover the hook with a foundation of Dyneema tying thread. I use Dyneema because it is salt water resistant and weight for weight stronger than quality steel.

Select some fine tapered olive and black marabou and tie in the tail. Colour your Dyneema with a black waterproof felt pen.

Load two paper clips or a Marc Petitjean magic tool, one with black marabou and one with olive. Make sure that the marabou fibres are not too long.

Once you have loaded your paper clips make a dubbing loop that is 2.5 times the length of your paper clips. Make sure that you dubbing loop begins tight against the tail of the fly. Colour the dubbing loop black with a waterproof felt pen.

Holding the loop open with your left hand place in the black marabou.

Now you have to take care! Once the black marabou is trapped in between the dubbing loop make sure you dont release the tension. Otherwise all the marabou will fall out.

Whilst keeping the tension in the first marabou by holding the dyneema loop with your left forefinger and thumb place in the olive marabou approximately 1 cm further down the loop. Now retain the tension in the loop and let the bottom half hang over your forefinger. Spin the bottom half of the loop tight.

Once you have spun the bottom half, while keeping the tension in the loop, lift and pull your dubbing spinner off your finger and the upper half of the loop will spin automatically, catching the black marabou. You can now spin the whole loop to tighten the marabou securely.

While holding the loop out stretched and tight use an old tooth brush (not a metal dubbing brush! this will fray and weaken your Dyneema) to open out any trapped marabou fibres.

Hang your dubbing loop in a material spring or clip, so that it doesn´t unwind while you are working on the rest of the fly. Using a even stronger Dyneema, cut a 30 cm length and double it. Place the looped end through the tail hook eye as shown.

Now thread the two ends of the core Dyneema through the loop in the hook eye.

And pull tight. You can now place a little drop of super glue on the knot.

Colour the core Dyneema with a black waterproof felt pen and then lie it down on top of the spun dubbing loop.

While holding the Dyneema core and the dubbing loop in your right hand, catch the centre of the dubbing loop with the hook end of a whip finish tool.

Fold the dubbing loop over as shown towards the tail hook.

While holding the dubbing spinner in place with your left hand remove the whip finish tool from the loop. You will now see the loop spin automatically together. Secure the dubbing loop to the tail hook by tying down a small section, and then folding over the dyneema and tying down again (see stage 23). Repeat this until you are sure it is secure. Remove the access dyneema tying thread and carefully apply a drop of super glue to the whippings . Taking care not to get it on the marabou.

Find the core loop again and attach your whip finish tool. Now you should be able to slide the marabou dubbing loop down the core a little. Remove the hook from your vice.

Place a bead onto the # 6 shrimp hook and secure in the vice. Once in the vice place a few wrapping of lead wire behind the bead head. This extra weight gives a much better swimming action.

Using your thumb nail push the lead wire into the bead head.

Attach your tying thread and secure the lead wire and bead head.

Tie in the core of the fly as shown.

Once the first part of the core is attached apply a drop of super glue.

Fold over the core and tie down again. Apply another small drop of super glue.

Once you have secured the core slide the dubbing loop up and tie this down. Once you are happy that everything is in place apply another small drop of super glue.

Move your tying thread to the rear of the hook shaft and make another dubbing loop. Don´t forget to colour the dyneema black. Spin in some olive marabou.

Wind on the last dubbing loop, making sure that you stroke the marabou fibres back with each turn.

Take a few black marabou fibres and tie these in over the olive ones. Whip finish and apply a tiny drop of super glue through the eye of the bead.

Cut off the point of the front hook with a strong pair of pliers. Be careful with your eyes when doing this as the point comes off like a bullet.

Proof of the pudding!


Sea Bass herring

Heres another one of the old video tutorials while I edit the new ones!