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The aim of this blog is to connect fly-tyers all over the world, to share, techniques, patterns, information and knowledge.

Archive for October, 2016

Tying a CdC parachute hackle

This is a technique that I have been working on some time now, trying to develope the perfect CdC parachute hackle that doesn’t interfear with the underside of the thorax in anyway and I beleive that this is pretty close.

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Hatching midge

This is a really simple quill body midge with a raised CdC hackle that will float all day long.

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The Stonefly Nymph

This is a simple but little more advanced technique for a stonefly nymph tied with nymph skin and cdc.

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A little piece of fly tying history, safe and sound!

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I thought some of you would like to see this.

Just the other weekend my wife was tidying her wardrobe, something that I try at all costs not to get involved with, but this time was a little different!  Stacked away in a drawer of an  old but not forgotten jewellery box, she came across a little piece of fly tying history.

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Way back in the mid 90’s Torill Kolbu visited and stayed with us a couple of days while we worked on some photography for some articles.  As a thank you to my wife Torill tied her a pair of woven stone-fly ear rings with Norwegian flag wing  case’s!

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These wonderful flies are made with Torill’s signature technique of crochet (woven) bodies that she won the first four places with in the world championships in salmon fly tying in 1993. Since then woven flies can be found as standard.

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Here you can see the detail in Torill’s crocheting technique, and I just love the Norwegian flag wing case.

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The underside of the Torill Kolbu woven stone fly nymph ear ring.


A weighted caddis pupa

An extremely simple but effective weighted caddis pupa perfect for searching pocket water and riffles.

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The Bunny Dragonfly nymph

 

A very simple yet effective Dragon fly nymph technique useing only a zonker strip.

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An American classic. The Beaverkill

Friday’s fly is one of the classic Catskill mayfly patterns with all the componets of the classic dry fly.

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Tying the shoe shine caddis

This is another intresting pattern that uses an unusual material, but shows that every day items can sometimes be put to good use in fly tying.

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Dyneema tying thread

One thread to bind them all !

The shear amount of spools of thread that I alone have accumulated over the years is mind boggling! I have silk, Nylon, Polyester, Kevlar, Dacron… this list goes on! The tyer always looks for thread to suit the job at hand. In this respect, diameter, 16/0 or 3/0, stretchability, flat or round profile, waxed or unwaxed, salt water resistant, and not to mention colour ! again, I can go on and on…

Around 15 years ago I replaced the chaos of literally hundreds of spools, for the most, with one single tying thread, in one colour and one size! Is it possible, you may ask? Here are the pro’s and cons of Dyneema.
Dyneema is a UHMwPE fibre, Ultra-High Molecular weight Polyethylene. It’s manufactured by means of a gel-spinning process, that has more recently been adapted for fishing line, that combines extreme strength with incredible softness, and no stretch. In other words its stronger, weight for weight than steel, it’s extremely light weight so it floats and build-up, turn for turn is minimal on the hook shaft. The chemical makeup of Dyneema also means that it doesn’t rot, it’s resistant to most chemicals, salt water and UV light.

Because its structure is made-up of many extremely thin fibres, it can be spun in a clockwise direction, the fibres will then twist into a single super strong ultra fine tying thread with a round profile. If you spin the thread in a anti clockwise direction, the fibres will open-up and the thread will acquire a flat profile, actually more like a floss silk. These two attributes mean that this one single size of Dyneema works for both the smallest, # 28 patterns up-to the largest salt water hooks castable. When the fibres are flat you can also split the thread and make a dubbing loop for spinning light materials, such as CdC, marabou and dubbing. But if you intend to spin heavier furs, such as rabbit you need to double the thread and make a loop in a traditional manner. This makes a much stronger loop, more adapt to gripping heavier materials with dense under fur. With the fibres open, (flat), it also becomes a first rate thread for spinning deer hair, but be warned, if you try and spin and flare deer hair with the thread twisted, it will cut through the deer hair like a hot knife through butter! Unlike most other tying threads Dyneema has ‘0’ stretch,it’s dead, so if you are use to setting tension in your thread when tying you will find this a problem and difficult to get use to.

When it come to thread colour, Dyneema tying thread is, as far as I am aware, only available in white, actually when unspooled its more opaque, but its fibres can be coloured very well with water proof or spirit based felt pens. The advantages of this is are many. You only need one colour of tying thread, but of course you do need spirt based felt markers in the colours required. This reduces not only the clutter of your tying station but also time taken in changing spools or bobbins. It also eliminates unnecessary build up on under bodies through attaching and tying off other colours of threads and flosses. Dyneema actually doesn’t absorbs colour, its only the surface fibres that are coloured. With regard to varnishing heads tied with Dyneema, on applying varnish you will see that it is absorbed immediately into the fibres. Resulting in a solid and extremely durable finish.

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Tying the Bee-Cee Caddis pupa

This is a realistic caddis pattern with a nice body technique for breathing gills. You can use Bug Skin chamois in different colours to match the style of caddia required. Give this one a go, you wont be disappointed.

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Tying the Duty free crippled mayfly

This crippled hatching mayfly has saved the day many a time when fish where so selective they wouldn’t look at anything else. The open cell wing buds are extremely realistic and will keep this pattern floating with the correct attitude all day long!

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The Gold Ribbed Hares Ear Nymph

One of the iconic nymphs that work in just about every situation for just about any kind of nymph. Not the traditional pattern but one I have used for many years.

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Tying the Willow fly

This is a simple but very effective autumn pattern for trout and grayling that only takes a few minutes to tie, and shows a couple of nifty techniques with CdC.

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The Sedge Hog

This is one of the best searcher patterns that will bring even sluggish fish up from the bottom. Easy to tie and even easier to fish. Tied with only one material, good old deer hair.

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Moose mane midge

This is a variation of the shuttlecock buzzer, a very effective pattern especially for still water. The moose mane technique creates a very simple but nice segmented body effect.

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Tying the CdC mayfly spinner

This is a semi-realistic super hi floating CdC mayfly spinner. Here I show you several special techniques with CdC all you need to do is change the hook size and colour to imitate most mayfly spinners.

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The burrowing may fly nymph

This is the floating version of the burrowing may fly nymph. A nice looking pattern thats easy to tie.

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Is every fish a nail, if you have the correct hammer?

A modern classic, the Klinkhammer a pattern that works all over the world. There are many ways to tie it, heres mine that uses a not so well known parachute hackling technique. Have a great weekend tyers of the world!

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Tying the Humpy

A pattern that many like to fish, but few like to tie! Heres my less complicated method of tying the Humpy but still produces that fat boy fly we all love to fish.

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Tying the Suckling Pig

Pattegrisen or the suckling pig or pink pig as its also known is one of the most popular salt water shrimp patterns in Europe, a real fish catcher!

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A Nymph named Montana!

One of the most effective but simple patterns, a fabulous technique, that surprisingly few know how to tie!

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Tying the house building caddis

A great little technique for creating realistic cased caddis larva patterns.

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