The aim of this blog is to connect fly-tyers all over the world, to share, techniques, patterns, information and knowledge.

Fly tying course # 10 Muddler Minnow

 

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Unquestionably the most famous of all streamers, and the model for many others.

 

Hook: Mustad R73NP-BR # 10-4

Thread: Dyneema (waxed)

Tail: Mottled turkey

Body: Flat gold tinsel

Rib: Copper wire

Underwing: Grey squirrel tail

Wing: Mottled turkey

Collar/Head: Spun and clipped natural deer hair

 

A few notes regarding the original Muddler pattern:

 

The hook used by its originator Don Gapen was a Mustad 38941 3X Long streamer, this was one of the long flies. When tying slip wings its important to use waxed thread. The Dyneema I use in most my patterns is too smooth for for wet fly style wings and has to be waxed in order not to slip. 

The original recipe is as above but excluding the copper wire rib. The rib is a later addition. The original was tied with metal tinsel that required no protection from the small sharp teeth of trout but later as plastic tinsel became the norm the wire rib was added to protect the tinsel and add additional strength.  When spinning large bunches of deer hair I recommend, if you are using regular tying thread a minimum denier of 3/0 waxed is necessary to have sufficient  strength to apply enough tension to achieve optimal flare in the deer hair.  When tying spun and clipped deer hair patterns your choice of hair is paramount. See my earlier posts regarding tying with deer hair and spinning deer hair.

If I was unfortunate enough to be be given the choice of having only one fly to fish for all species both in fresh and salt water, I would have no problem! The Muddler minnow would without doubt be my number one choice. The pattern I tie here is as close to the original as I can get.

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 1
Secure your 3XL streamer hook in the vice making sure that the hook shank is horizontal.
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2
You will need two mottled turkey feathers one from each wing. Cut two small slips one from the same position from each wing feather for the tail.
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Attach your tying thread and run it the full length of the hook shank so that it hangs vertically between the hook point and barb. Place the two small wing slips ‘back to back and tie in on top of the hook shank for the tail as shown. This is done by holding the two slips in the left hand while you make one loose turn of tying thread around the slips and between your finger and thumb. Tighten by pulling your tying thread ‘upwards’ This will stop your wing slips from slipping around the hook and keep them central and straight.
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4
Trim off the surplus slip butts diagonally and tie in a length of fine copper wire at the base of the tail. Now cover the hook shank with an even coat of tying thread. This is important to get a tinsel body of the same thickness.
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Tie in your flat tinsel about 1 cm behind the hook eye. Wind the tinsel in even close fitting turns all the way back to the tail and the back to the tying in position behind the hook eye. Tie off.
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Cut off the excess flat tinsel and then wrap the copper wire rib in the opposite direction to the flat tinsel, in even open turns. Tie off.
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Cut a medium bunch of hair from a grey squirrel tail and remove the under fur and shorter hairs. Stack the hair in a hair stacker. Now measure the hair wing along the hook shank so that it is the same length as the slip tail. Trim the hair wing to length. Now before you tie the hair in place a small drop of varnish on the cut end of the hair bunch, this will glue it in place and also make it more durable. Tie in on top of the hook shank.
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Cut two larger mottled turkey wing slips for the wing. Again one from each wing feather.
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Tie these in the same way as the tail on top of the squirrel tail underwing.
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Select some good dense natural deer hair from the winter coat. See my earlier post on European Roe deer.
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Cut a good generous bunch. This is where many tyers make the mistake of too small a bunch and having to add more bunches later, to make the whole head. The head should be made of only one bunch of deer hair. Clean the hair by removing the under fur and shorter hairs and stack in a hair stacker.
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Place the bunch of deer hair with the tips facing back towards the tail, these will be the collar of the head. While holding the bunch in place make two loose turns of tying thread around the bunch, then tighten by by pulling upwards and the hair will flare. Once the hair is flared make several other tight wraps with a ‘zig zag’ movement as you go towards the hook eye. This will push the deer hair from side to side as you wrap and stop you from trapping the hair and tying it down flat!
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Tie off and whip finish. You can now begin to trim your muddler head to the basic shape. See my deer hair tutorial.
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14
You can choose here if you would like a cone shaped head. You can see on this image that some hair ends are burnt! see my deer hair tutorial for the full step be step of this technique.
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Or a round clipped head. This style will move more water when stripped.
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The finished Muddler minnow.

13 responses

  1. Agree with that…the Muddler is my choice too for Atlantic salmon, brown and seatrout…I also use many varients from #14 mini Muddllers to #4 longshank as a wake lure.

    February 28, 2013 at 1:36 pm

  2. Daniel Murphy

    Love all muddlers .Great for wild brown trout.

    February 28, 2013 at 2:47 pm

  3. Another great tutorial. Thanks.

    February 28, 2013 at 4:48 pm

  4. Nice work. FYI, I am in the throes of finishing a book on Muddler Minnows and some 400 other Muddlerish patterns. It will be published (when?) as MUDDLER MAGIC by Frank Amato Publications. It’s a more ambitious follow-up to my 2005 book on Woolly Worms and Buggers, WOOLLY WISDOM (also published by Amato).

    February 28, 2013 at 7:37 pm

    • Hi Gary, yeah you contacted me earlier about my deer hair photos with regard to your book but I diden’t here anything back from you! If you do need anything let me know.

      February 28, 2013 at 8:01 pm

  5. Thanks for showing us a great and reliable pattern.

    February 28, 2013 at 9:54 pm

  6. Reblogged this on Gin Clear and commented:
    One of my favorite patterns. Great step-by-step tying instructions.

    March 3, 2013 at 1:54 am

  7. Anonymous

    Isn’t that size of head make that fly floating??

    March 16, 2013 at 1:06 pm

    • Yes of course, but thats the whole point with a muddler. You fish a fly like this with a sink tip or sinking line.

      March 16, 2013 at 6:32 pm

  8. Hi Barry, Perfect and clear photo’s step by step.
    Easy to follow and special the difficult points of tying

    May 16, 2013 at 2:03 pm

    • Hi Henk, Thanks. I hope to see you at one of the shows later in the year.

      Cheers

      Barry

      May 22, 2013 at 7:16 am

  9. Pingback: Barry Ord Clarke: Fliegenbinden für Anfänger #10 Muddler Minnow | Forelle & Äsche

  10. That is a nice muddler.
    i will try to use it when the time is near.
    greetings and tight lines

    September 16, 2013 at 8:28 pm

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