X Caddis tied by Barry Ord Clarke

X Caddis pattern

This next fly in the course is the X Caddis pattern. This is a no hackle dry fly that floats extremely well because of the natural buoyancy of the deer hair and Antron tail.

I can´t recommend the X-caddis enough. No grayling or trout fisherman should be without this pattern in their fly box. The original from John Juraceks and Craig Mathews was intended as a hatching caddis fly that is skating across the surface trying to escape from the nymphal skin that is trailing behind it, before it flies to freedom.  This pattern has taken fish for me all over the globe, in all kinds of conditions and not only during caddis hatches but also under extremely selective feeding during mayfly hatches and midge fly fishing. The high flared deer hair wing and head, position the low profile no hackle body, so perfectly in the surface film that grayling just can´t resist it.  I have had most success with this pattern in the smaller hook sizes from # 16-18. When tying these smaller sizes I prefer to use the finer hair from the roe deer mask.  This hair is nicely marked and extremely fine even for the smallest patterns, and only flares to 45 degrees unlike the more buoyant body hair that will flare to 90 degrees.  Although you can tie the X-caddis pattern in various body colours I have found the one shown here the most effective.

X Caddis pattern recipe

How to tie X Caddis

X Caddis step1


Make sure that when you secure your hook in the vice that the hook shank is horizontal. Cover the hook shank with a layer of tying thread.

X Caddis step2


Cut a very small piece of cream coloured crimped polypropylene yarn or Z-Lon (material from John Betts) Tie this in where the hook bend begins as shown. You dont need much, this is going to represent the nymph skin trailing behind the hatching caddis. It should be about half the hook shaft length.

X Caddis step 3


Wind your tying thread back to the tail base. Spin a thin dubbing string onto the tying thread and wind tightly forward.

X Caddis step 4


Wind the dubbing forward so that you get a slightly increasing body thickness as you approach the hook eye. Leave 2-3 mm behind the hook eye so you have room for the wing and head. Make a whip finish, but dont remove the tying thread.

X Caddis step5


Cut a small bunch with fine deer hair and even the points in a hair stacker if you have one. If you dont have a hair stacker try and get the points of the hair as even as possible. Holding the hair measure the wing by holding the hair on top of the hook shank. The wing should be a fraction longer than the body.

X Caddis step6


While still holding the deer hair make two loose turns of tying thread around the wing and hook shank, still holding the deer hair, then tighten by pulling down. Make 5 or 6 tight turns of tying thread as shown.

X Caddis pattern


With a pair of sharp scissors cut off the excess deer hair over the hook eye with one neat cut as shown. Make a couple of whip finishes and your X caddis is ready. You can also put a tiny drop of varnish just on the whippings


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12 thoughts on “X Caddis pattern

    1. The deer hair used should be the same as you use for comparadun’s, hair that fairs only to 45 degrees. If you use longer hair from the winter coat it will flair to 90 degrees when pressure is applied to the tying thread. I personally use hair from a European roe deer mask. The mask contains a huge amount of material that differs in colour length and markings well worth trying to get hold of one if you can!

    1. Hei,
      først takk for BRA lesing på bloggen din!

      jeg plages litt med å få hårvingen til å se fin ut. Tar du et par løse tørn rundt selve vingen FØR du legger den ned på krokskaftet og strammet med et par turn?

    1. Hi Steve, it depends! If you wish to fish it high and dry it should flare a little out to the sides to support the fly on the surface. But if you wish to fish it as a emerger, which I personally think is best, the wing should be high, so the body of the fly is partially submerged.