The Midas nymph is my rendition on a more common pattern called the copper John, which uses copper wire instead of gold oval tinsel amongst other things. The interesting thing about the copper John, according to Bruce Olsen sales manager for Umpqua Feather Merchants, The worlds largest manufacturer of commercially tied flies, the copper John is the best selling trout fly in the world. “We sell them by the tens of thousands” Bruce says, and thats just the original copper version. When you add in all the colour variant of that pattern, the numbers get to be absolutely staggering.”
Thousands of anglers around the world cant be wrong. If you haven’t tied and fished with the copper John, its probably time you did!
Head: Gold brass bead head
Hook: Mustad S6ONP-BR # 16-10
Tying thread: Dyneema
Tail: Golden pheasant topping
Body: Medium gold oval tinsel coated with UV
Thorax: Peacock herl
Legs: Goose biots
Wing case: Medium oval gold tinsel
After having great success with bead head nymphs for both trout and grayling, over a period of time a pattern began to develop. Since the introduction of bead heads in the early eighties, we all know how well they fish, but if I was fishing with exactly the same weighted nymph, but tied with a black bead head instead of a gold one, the amount of takes where not dramatic, but noticeably reduced! So my natural chain of thought is that its the gold head which was the main attractor factor. Why not try a nymph that is totally gold ! After my initial attempts, I quickly discovered that the tinsel body and thorax where extremely venerable to small sharp teeth, and had a very short lifespan. But a coat or two with Bug Bond or Epoxy sorted that out. This is a relatively new pattern and I have only fished it seriously last season, although the results where good, its still too early to say how good! Tie some up and try for yourself, you won’t be disappointed! This spring it will also be tested on sea trout…
Place your bead head on the hook and secure in the vice.
Run the tying thread over the whole length of the hook shank.
Tie in one or two small golden pheasant toppings as the tail.
On the underside of the hook shank tie in a good length of medium gold oval tinsel. The oval is better, round tinsel has a tendency to slip down the body.
You can now dub a tapered underbody. If you would like to add extra weight you could build up the under body with lead wire.
Now wind on the tinsel in tight even turns to form a segmented nymph body. Stop with good room for the thorax.
You can now give the body a good coat with Bug Bond. This not only protects the tinsel but also gives it extra “bling”. Cut four lengths of gold oval tinsel and tie these in to form the wing case, tight into the body.
Now apply a little more dubbing to bring the thorax up-to the required diameter.
At the base of the body tie in a good long peacock herl and move your tying thread froward to the bead head.
Make four or five turns with the herl and tie off. But dont trim off the remainder of the herl
you will need this later.
Take two goose biots and tie these in one each side of the thorax for the legs.
Cover the rest of the thorax with a few turns of peacock herl and tie off behind the bead head.
Now fold over the tinsel wing case and secure with a couple of loose turns of tying thread, trim off the tinsel wing case about three mm above the two loose turns of tying thread. This is so when you tighten the loose turns, the trimmed ends will disappear under and into the bead head.
carefully give the wing case a coat of Bug Bond, making sure that it doesn’t get onto the peacock herl thorax.
Order My new book
You must be logged in to post a comment.